Workers in Pakistan’s denim factories—supplying global fashion brands such as H&M, C&A, and Gap—are subjected to excessive working hours, wage theft, poverty wages, and little to no access to social security benefits.
These widespread labour rights violations are detailed in a new report by Arisa, based on interviews and focus group discussions with 126 workers from eight garment factories in Karachi and Lahore, conducted in collaboration with Pakistani labour rights researchers.
Labour rights violations
The majority of workers reported routinely working beyond the legal limit, with overtime described as mandatory and unpaid. Refusing extra hours often led to threats, harassment, wage cuts, or dismissal.
“We usually work two to three hours of overtime a day. Sometimes we work more than 100 hours of overtime in a month.”
“The regular shift is from 8:30 am to 5:30 pm, but one has to work overtime to meet the given target. No payment is made for this extra worktime. Usually we have to work from 8 am to 8 pm.”
“If you refuse overtime, you will be told that you are no longer needed.”
Eighty-six per cent of respondents said they experienced wage theft—not being compensated for all hours worked, including overtime. In some cases, the amount withheld was as much as a third to half of a worker’s monthly income, pushing them deeper into financial insecurity. Nearly all workers (99%) earned less than a living wage, making it impossible to cover basic needs. Seven workers reported being paid below the legal minimum wage.
“It is difficult to make ends meet because of high inflation. We have to make sacrifices in some areas. Sometimes we don’t eat complete meals.”
The research further reveals that 80% of workers lack access to health insurance and pension schemes. Instead, many face costly private health insurance options that provide fewer benefits.
Many workers lack employment contracts or any proof of employment, while employers often display hostility toward unionisation efforts. This leaves workers vulnerable and hinders their ability to claim rights or seek justice for violations.
Major global brands linked to investigated denim factories
The investigated factories are part of leading textile groups responsible for a large share of Pakistan’s garment exports. Arisa identified well-known international brands sourcing apparel products from the investigated units, including Bestseller, Boohoo, C&A, Gap, H&M, Inditex, Kontoor Brands, Levi Strauss, Mango, Next, and Primark.
Diewertje Heyl (Arisa): “Too often, brands pledge to uphold living wages in their codes of conduct and public statements, but our research reveals a harsh reality: these promises rarely become a reality. Workers endure illegal overtime, take out loans just to survive, and are forced to buy food on credit or forgo basic needs. This situation is unacceptable. Brands must take responsibility and ensure that every worker in their supply chains earns a living wage – no more excuses, no more delays.”
The report presents urgent recommendations for international buyers, Pakistan manufacturers, and government authorities—all responsible for ensuring decent work and protecting human rights in Pakistan’s garment sector.
Click here to download the report ‘Overworked and Underpaid’.
